Friday, October 5, 2012

Navy Velvet Doublet Gown

This was the first real project that I made once I got my own sewing machine (it's the same one I currently use - a Viking Emerald), which I received as a belated graduation present in May 2010. It is based partially on Simplicity 3782, and inspired by this portrait of Leonora de Medici, by Alessandro Allori. My original design called for shoulder rolls and matching sleeves, but I didn't have time to make them at first, and since then I've realized that if I had ever added sleeves, I would probably wind up overheating. I finished it in early October 2010, in order to wear it to the upcoming Lady of the Lakes Ren Faire in Tavares, FL. It has since also been worn to the Sarasota Medieval Faire, the Bay Area Ren Faire in Tampa, Scarborough Faire, and the NorCal Ren Faire.

All the fabric came from the Joanns red tag table. The bulk of the gown in made of navy cotton velveteen. The forepart (which is detachable, using whopper poppers), collar lining, and trim is all some sort of poly home dec material. The undergarments can all be seen in this separate post.

  • The underskirt is made of black cotton sateen, and has whopper poppers in the front, so that the forepart can be switched out if I ever make another look. It is gathered at the waist, into a cotton canvas waistband, which closes with hooks and eyes. 
  • The forepart is backed with felt, since the gold fabric is pretty lightweight. I hand-sewed glass pearls into the centers of all the flowers. 
  • The overskirt is cartridge pleated into the waistband (it was the first time I ever did cartridge pleating!), which is lined with gingham canvas, to make the pleats even. There are bars spaced along the waistband, to hook the bottom of the doublet down, so that they don't separate. The overskirt is trimmed with the home dec fabric.
  • The doublet is lined with cotton canvas, and trimmed with the home dec fabric. It buttons up the front with buttons from Pillaged Village. Instead of buttonholes, I used a fancy braided trim that has loops on the side, and they just happened to be a perfect fit for the buttons, once I stitched it down.

Before I wore it to the Bay Area Ren Faire, I made a matching escoffion, out of the gold home dec fabric, and wore it with my tall hat (the hat was purchased, but I made the feather arrangement). The last time I wore it, for the NorCal Ren Faire last year, I decided it needed something new, so I also made all new jewelry for it - the pearl necklace with pendant, large pearl drop earrings, and the pearl girdle, as well as stringing all the pearls through my hair. I like the look much better that way, than with the hat and escoffion.

Lady of the Lakes Faire, 2010

Lady of the Lakes Faire, 2010
Sarasota Medieval Faire, 2010

NorCal Ren Faire, 2011

NorCal Ren Faire, 2011
NorCal Ren Faire, 2011

NorCal Ren Faire, 2011
NorCal Ren Faire, 2011

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